New Product! Basic ESC R3

Originally published at: https://www.bluerobotics.com/new-product-basic-esc-r3/

Hi everyone, we have a quick new product announcement for today! The Basic ESC has been updated to a new R3 version, and besides looking (and running!) cooler, there have been a few changes under the hood to add features and make it even more robust. This new version of the Basic ESC runs BLHeli_S firmware, a much more modern ESC firmware with smoother running and easy customization with the BlHeliSuite graphical interface.

More efficient design and components allow the Basic ESC to be packed into an even smaller package with less heat generation than previous designs. We evaluated a bunch of potential ESCs for and put them through a battery of tests to evaluate their reliability and robustness, which included:

  • Running a T200 continuously for hours at over 20V and 32A
  • Hammering a T200 back and forth between full reverse and full forward
  • Statistical testing of PWM signal response with a function generator
  • Multiple dives of real world testing in a BlueROV2

The new Basic ESC performed excellently, and we're very excited to have it available now! The BlueROV2 is also now shipping with the Basic ESC R3 installed.

We will continue to sell the original Basic ESC R2, but we have set an "end of life" date for 6 months from now.

Stay tuned for more future product updates!

Besides the lessened heat generation, would there be any advantages to switching out the R1 basic ESCs on older BlueROV2s for the R3 design? I’m contemplating upgrades.

This is great news!

Thank you for keeping the new products coming.

Heinz

Hi Kevin,

There’s no reason to switch if you have working ESCs. We made this change to get a few of the small upgrades and also for a more reliable and consistent supplier on our end.

They do make different “start-up” beeps, so if you start mixing them you’re ROV will play a weird symphony of sounds when it’s powered up :wink:

-Rusty

1 Like

Hi, just a quick question. Are the new ESC’s a direct replacement for the old, with no other modifications or software updates?

Thanks

Heinz

@force10windsurf, Yes, these are a drop-in replacement.

thank you Jacob

Hi Heinz,

Yes, the new ESCs function the same as the older ones, and are direct drop in on the BlueROV2. There are no other updates necessary. Mixing the new R3 ESC with the older R2 and R1 versions is fine and won’t cause any problems, but the startup beep sequence will sound quite interesting!

-Adam

Hello, just wanted to ask a question; it will be grateful if you answer my doubt. Do you think it is better to connect a capacitor to ESC since our ROV requires frequent number of forward and backward movements. I heard capacitors connected to ESC can prevent damaging ESC. My friend bought several ESCs from here and I wanted to know whether it is better to add a capacitor between 12V and Ground as our ROV (underwater) requires quick change of forward and backward movements. If adding a capacitor is better how much value do you think is appropriate? (I was thinking 220uF) As a student, we paid huge amount of money and I wanted to ensure everything is okay before putting it underwater.

Hi Daniel,

The BlueROV2 is a high power vehicle that often undergoes quick movements in all directions, where a thruster can draw up to 25A. It also uses the Basic ESC R3, and we have never experienced any issues with the ESC during many hours of real world dives. In fact, we have not yet had a single customer report of any issues with the ESC; it has been included with every BlueROV2 and most thrusters shipped in the last 3 months.

I tested the Basic ESC R3 thoroughly before we launched it, and was unable to cause a single one to stop working or otherwise malfunction while running our thrusters, short of pointing a high power heat gun at it while it was running (it was fine once it cooled off). For more details on the tests I did, check out the first post in this topic. The Basic ESC R3 does already have about 110µF of capacitance in the form of surface mount capacitors. It certainly doesn’t hurt to add more, but given the proven reliability, it is unnecessary. If you do still want to go ahead an do this, an additional 220µF across the power and ground of each ESC at the PCB would be plenty.

-Adam