Hi @ROVoz
If you unplug the USB cable going to the FXTI, the interface “Ethernet 2” should disappear. Is this the case?
The problem is clear here:
Because the link light is not present on the ROv Fathom-X tether adapter, which converts 2 wires in the tether to an ethernet connection, is not functioning. This could be due to damage to that board, such as corrosion, or damage to your tether. You can check the tether is connected correctly by verifying low resistance from end to end with a multimeter:
While you are using the very old Companion OS instead of BlueOS, that isn’t the cause for your issues! If you’re satisfied with the performance (when things are connected and working) there is no reason to upgrade.
Were you able to load that companion interface in your web browser currently? That would suggest that communications through the tether are ok… can you perform a network speed test (top left) if that’s the case?
The Blue Robotics technical reference recommends QGround Control 4.2.8, which is an old version that will prompt you to update on every launch, however it is much newer than the version 3.2.4 you’re using!
The pixhawk in your vehicle is running ArduSub 3.5.4 - this is also very old, but if it works for you, please continue using. As they say, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it…
I would be concerned that the potted penetrators will not make your vehicle reliably water-tight. Blue Robotics recommends replacing all potted penetrators, as they are known to leak. Due to the many leak reports, a much more robust option, the WLP. The WetLink Penetrator can be installed in seconds without adhesives, potting compounds, or rubber molding.
To replace the thruster potted penetrators, either of the following methods can be employed:
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Disassemble the thrusters, replace the thruster core, and reassemble them with the same components.
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The cable length on some thrusters installed on the ROV is too short to cut the potted penetrator off and install a WLP. As this forum post shows, some users applied heat to remove them and avoid losing cable length. Once the potted penetrators are removed, you can replace them with WLP-M10-6.5MM-HC for 18 AWG cables.
It’s also imperative to replace the potted power cables. Similarly, there are two options:
- You can upgrade to the dual power cables with preinstalled WLPs. You’ll need an extra hole on both end caps and a new Power Sense Module, or you can terminate your current PSM with 5.5mm bullet connectors to fit the dual cables.
- You can purchase the high-power cable by the meter, compatible with WLP-M10-8.5MM-LC. You must terminate the cable with 3.5mm male/female bullet connectors for your ROV’s current power setup.
Before doing all that, I would recommend you get a connection to the vehicle. If you get link lights on both the FXTI and the BlueROV2 Fathom-X, and things still don’t work, your hardware may be damaged. You can upgrade the electronics with Navigator Retrofit Guide. In addition to the parts listed in the guides, you will also need a 5V 6A Power Supply.
