aaa i Also want Manually"Auto Hold" 
… is this part possible for you to sell me?..and how much will it be? aprox…or havent you come that far?
Auto-Hold can only be achieved by adding a DVL and programming Qgroundontrol.
This is something for the Bluerobotics guys to develop as I do not touch the Qgroundcontrol software.
A DVL is at least 10Kusd but Bluerobotics guys could likely make one using 4 ping altimeter on different frequencies…
Also is will only work near the bottom…
Alternatively machine vision technology could be used to keep hold from the video feed. Now that would be something really nice…
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I dindt mean Actually Hold, manually (potmeters feks)… if i have x,y and z im happy!.. make the better…
if you have experience its enough… “Station keep” the old way, just a little nudge on the joystick here and there… Old school
Finalized the joystick today.
Works very well.
Gain and trims perform flawlessly.
I will post a video soon.
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Hello all,
here is the video I promised. I am not a video tutorial superstar like Rusty so just focus on the product 
Cheers,
E.
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Hola vendes estos controladores
Si, Arctic subsea robotics on fb …but its Easy to build yourself
…there will be different types… so what are you looking for?..the one i make myself will be about 1000 dollars plus shipping(Hall effekt), the other will be cheaper,but its in the future…i am consentrating on other things now:) Redirecting... …but you can see here… i guess this is ok BR?
Nice one…
Regarding DeltaROV’s controller.
I understand that the trim roll and trim pitch are done using the black “rotation buttons”. That is for the “heavy” version only, correct?
Would it make sense to have another joystick for trim roll and trim pitch to behave similarly to the “toggled” joystick using the green button on logitech controller?
Hi Eloi,
That is incorrect. Trim and gain are for thruster controls. For instance, you are operating in current and want to compensate without touching the joystick. Or you are in 100% gain and want to reduce the rate of rotation. Etc.
Pitch and roll trim controll are done with the blue and white buttons above the main joystick.
They could be wired with a little stick with switches. Same for the tilt, the lights etc.
I adopted this configuration because it’s very intuitive, the buttons can be seen in the dark and the whole ensemble is easier to make splash proof.
In the end there are many configurations possible. This is why I sell the controller in parts so those who wish to make their own variation can.
Cheers,
E
By now, I’ve seen quite a few custom controllers (thank you to everyone who has posted up their projects!) and I am considering writing a step-by step guide in the same style as our “Learn” Guides. Some customers don’t like the Xbox controller, which is understandable, and I am interested in trying out a 3-axis joystick.
A question for the pro’s: I have seen a variety of 4th Axis (Depth) input styles on various controllers. Paddle, thumbstick, dial, thumbwheel, etc. What input style do you like and why?
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…After a lot of different systems and controllers, ill say mine… i buildt it like i wanted, the f15 stick or similar(4 func)are fancy, but heavy to use(WROV)(its “practical” for All fingers use bec of tether and cam tiltpan)… thumpstick is ok for cam, Vert stick…well as i have or similar… 3 axis with 2 toggles…Perfect for this system, but this is for everybody that have been working with this, to decide…but a x box or playstationcontoller is a waste of ROV !!! buy a drone;D… its like buying a Ferrari and get Fiat wheels on?;D …straight forward i have the Best controller on the marked, and All that makes their own will say the same!!! 4 axis we DONT need, we dont have a Rigmaster to control too??.. the gripper you use a finger;) …so i would recomend to All that you make it as simple as possible, and make them with joysticks…even switches!.. i have 4 joysticks, but i also have switches too(10) …knobs are knobs… even if they have light;D …witch is just a waste… if you have to Look at your controller to understand whats going on , then practise;) …just got a 11 yr old boy didnt have to seee the controller(or readings)… understood it after 5 min!.. use your experience or look for some! …dont listen to people like Me feks;D… we Know… but its not shure you will Know the same after a while, but i will say one thung Fingerstick is the deal… the Logiteck or F-15 is Shit in the long run, you dont have the same feeling as your fingers!! …else feel yourself on the board… where its natural?..its All about control and comfort!;)…and Yes i made mine, after working with the constructror of Merlin Wr 200 …and he Knows whats good for what! but we didnt agree about the F-15 stick;) …my Old “baby” Argus Rover have a chair now with same setup as mine;)
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Hi Kevin,
I have flown ROVs for over 20 years using several makes and vertical control styles. Without question the paddle stick is the best to fly an ROV in my opinion as it is comfortable and intuitive.
Cheers,
E.
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Hello,
New controller design for those who do not want a table top controller.
I put my head together with @SoSub to come up with the best solution we could think of while keeping the controller small.
Featuring:
- Apem HALL effect 3-axis low profile joystick
- Apem HALL effect Single axis spring return to center thumb wheel for verts
- Apem push buttons
- Encoders
- LCD
- Water detect
- Handles
- Oring sealed bottom cover
- Rubber feet
- IP65 rated
About Tilt and light control:
- Tilt and light control are on the sides via encoders
- The tilt and light selector on the top allows to control several tilt and light circuits via the encoders.
- The LCD displays Which control is selected
Vert and pitch trims are also on the sides
The Gain selector allows to select which gain you want to adjust:
- FWD/AFT
- ROTATE
- VERT
- LATERAL
- SOFTWARE GENERAL GAIN.
Cheers,
E.
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…why make it smaller?i see you have weight on your Etienne, but dont see the point of smaller??.. the oolfactor dont count in this buisness… and looking for old types isnt alkways the best… see Saab Seaeye… small cheap joystics… hehehe maby thats why the started following me on Twitter;)… i make what i Like and are comfortable with, and i see around that i have a lot of copies around now;D idont mind, its a comliment;), and still getting orders from Everywhere? …its the use that counts not the design! … just as my new frame… its definetive better than the tight original… waterflow and agility, moore stable flow( so a small advise, a little waterflow dont hurt, else the current Easy tajes you!;)and moore possibillities for tooling is worth the ekstra kilos. we are in an applyingt period so hope we will succseed, and in a few month show you a Heavy duty mini wROV(YES we are in a new ROV era, and they cqant ignore us anylonger!!..maby now someone understabd why i dont care about fishfarming and that shit!.. there will NEVER be a Loke ROV in a fishfarm, its just just career suicide after what i have learned trough the years1;)…also mysystem will never be controlled by a plastation controller!( One serious person is enough for seeing and there will never come the day of your dreamjob! … t, with the size of my Loke MkII, and trusters 4 times stronger, bigger propeller and lower KV… will be a LOT MOORE POWERFUL AND STABLE… New hard core propellers and new trusterframe , aiming at 2,5Kw, but lower KV… seems and behave like an ROV Then,) …lifting capasities will be offshore capable, and there will be a FEW things we cant do that a SCHILLING T4 can do in reality… guess the only thibg i cant do is changing of heavy parts as riserclamps and the plates inside… but for that work we need 4 X T4 …think i have shared that picture before… soooo now we are just waiting and see how much we get insupport, for this system , and deep sea mining, my first meeting with VIS went brillisnt, have to have a demo for a lot of them now, but we are sending out about 15-20 applications so i guess we will score somewhere… got a new workshop today and port for the boats…
and two new boats are on the line… small and handy with a 20HP outboard, and last but not least… Viksund combi 25`…engine is not cleared yet, but seems like a Mercruiser 200hp… we are fast, effective and saving lives while waiting for the moore serious future… still this is missing me as much as im missing this…BROKK 150… cant beat that, subsea… decomission will see another level og effectivness… now its just up and forward,as my boss asked me, soo how are you shure about this??+… I ansvered, can anyone do it better than us?..after 5 sec, he just said NO they cant, god point,9… ![DSC_0611|690x460] …our team is getting beyond Solid, have never been together like this and this si definetively some of the worlds leading Pilots and tecnichians, there is no seecret that we are high in competence in Norway so;)… …just have to get rid of that CORONA VIRUS, IS STALLING ME LIKE A chineese ROV factory;DDD (upload://v0NEZ5WIENF0vCSHSEaIw3VQLea.jpeg) Stay helathy Al of you and will keep you updated… 1000m is close, must just make the boyancy moulds, so 5 systems are mde simultaius,9 …WAS NICE TO CRACK SYMATEX MIXTURE CODE,ddd! DSC_0621|690x460 …lokinf for a small lorry crane for this boat… . increases the income Anyway;)…will be a winch and TMS SYstem also, but there is a lot of space in the back… and the oat is Rock solid, the old Man Erling is Still making Niice boats for work and recreational use… just went up a nudge this tI
me(Nooo not yhis boat. )…sharng a hint of my propellers that im currentky working on<.
