Hopefully, this will be completed before the end of the month. I’ll post pictures.
We are also designing a second controller that will include surface power for the BR2. Similar enclosure but slightly bigger. This will require a different tether and swap out the 3inch battery enclosure with a power enclosure. It is still in the development stage.
I would love to hear any comments and suggestions from people who have worked with BR2.
Being that I double check my wiring as I go I thought the buttons were DOA. Turns out the little bulb inside hold by a thread so I can see myself having to re-seat them a lot:
My HALL effect joystick were worth the extra cost. Compared to the Logitech and other controllers I have tested where the values bounce a bit, this one is flat solid.
Also when you move the joystick and come back is goes right back to the previous value.
As you can see, QGC finds all of my 36 buttons but it still only allows to allocate 16 buttons which I hope can be sorted out.
This allows me to see which button is which while flying when all the lights are turned off which I find quite useful.
About these buttons I find that they heat up if full brightness is on.
The regulator heats up a lot and its heating up the backplate. I haven’t received the heatsink for it yet and I think I will be moving it to the bottom plate by itself.
Will follow…but how is handling now??..can you go lateral and the same time go a bit counteclock… like an inspection on a pipe in a circle?..possible?
Depends how expensive you want to get with the components. The Bodnar USB interface is around $40USD, but “industrial quality” joysticks run $180USD and up. Just the components for the hand controller illustrated on our website cost around $500USD. But cheaper (and poorer quality) alternatives can be found.
ok;O…well that dont scare me,but will hopefully uildt it myself (for the joy and my needs;) but just an example…can this be used https://www.ebay.com/itm/282629368776 ?
That’s an example of a “cheaper component”. It uses cheap carbon potentiometers. Yes, it will work, but a high quality Hall Effect joystick ( like this: HF33R10 APEM Inc. | Switches | DigiKey ) will work even better (and is what is used in higher end ROV’s such as SeaEye, Seabotix, etc.).
ok i un derstand;9 well lets see what i do:) start in the small i have left on my budget;) but will advance…i have faith in this system;)…just need a small manip and positioning, we are up and going pro;)))…im just for the moment bidding on a blueROV2 on Ebay? and claculating the extras…hehehe… looks like santa got robbed;)
aa ive seen them and they remind me of worklass…and i like OBS setup better… i get better feeling in my fingers than my hand as a fighterpilot… looks col but i dont like as well as the easy old ones… as Sea Owl feks…perfect ;)… but i need Potmeters for all trusters and lights (esp. ccw &clw gain)(can that be adjusted Down in the program too?..bec a see a lot of videos that reminds me of my first Argus Rover… var in the factory and made them reprogram it… was Too strong (CCW $ CW)so the ROV arent stable in turns?
… autocontrols heading and dept.? are there?.. so if i purcase theese things i will get help putting this together and work?.. i know hydraulic, sledghammerwork, and elektro, and pilotoing, but comuterprogramming and Electronics … Mayday mayday;) …you help me and i Might figure out a manip for us;)
It uses cheap carbon potentiometers. Yes, it will work, but a high quality Hall Effect joystick ( like this: 
… Mayday mayday;) …you help me and i Might figure out a manip for us;)