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M100 - Compatible for Openrov V2.6


(Tom-Vidar Salangli) #1

Hi

I see that I can mount the M100 openrov kit w/propeller as a replaceable vertical thruster.

But, Can I also order 2 more for the horizontal thrust?

Using 1 right and one left bladed propeller? Will they fit inside the original mounting and fit the ducts?


(Rusty) #2

Tom-Vidar,

Yes, the M100s can be used as horizontal thrusters as well. The same OpenROV Mounting Adapter will work for those motors as well (on versions 2.6 and earlier).

Here are the mounts: https://www.bluerobotics.com/store/parts/m100-m-orov-adapter/

And the propellers: https://www.bluerobotics.com/store/parts/m100-p-propeller-rev-r1/

We have a specific propeller for the vertical thruster that is designed to fit in the space and optimized for upward thrust. It is not listed on the store but we can add it if you are interested.

-Rusty


(Stian) #3

hei!

 

Jeg lurer på om du eller noen du kjenner er på jakt etter konnektorer til deres diy prosjekter.

Jeg driver selv å bygger, og har litt forskjellig til overs av konnektorer. seacon og burton.

Dette er ordentlige konnektorer som brukes i proffmarkedet.

Jeg har også tether. En på ca 150 m og en på ca 50. OD ca 18mm med fiber, power og twisted pair.

Denne er for litt kraftigere rover enn openrov, men gjerne du kjenner noen.

 


(Harold Scadden) #4

Seacon, Burton and a lot of others make hybrid connector / receptacle bodies but I don’t think people are really in the market to pay the cost of the connectors that you are talking about which would cost more than their ROV for a single set of connectors and the associated receptacle for it.

You say that you are using a cable tether that has fiber optic, a twisted pair and power. Where are you getting that cable from? Is it a total cable or are you making some sort of home made cable?

If it is a true undersea hybrid copper / fiber cable … again, that stuff is going to cost out the ying yang for a system that you are only going to 150 meters with. The hydrostatic drag on that cable is going to be a heckuva lot more than the simple tether system that the OpenRov system is using.

Care to post the specifications for your device?

 


(Stian) #5

thanks for the advice, but this is not company sales. I sell as private person since i have some leftovers.

This post was ment to tom vidar, since i do not going to send out off norway.

I am new at this forum, and thought i only send this message to tom vidar.

Forget the post!

 


(Tom-Vidar Salangli) #6

Hi Stian

I am using these kind of waterproof connectors for the tether.

(2 pin)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-Pair-2-3-4-Pin-LED-Connector-Cable-For-3528-5050-RGB-LED-Strip-NEW-/171447407472?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item27eb0fd370

I’m thinking on try the 3-pin for connecting the motors. this way it will be easier to replace one motor if it should fail during operation with out having to solder etc

I will for now stick to the original tether due to its low drag and cost etc
If someone comes up with a thin neutral buoyant tether I will look in to it.



(Harold Scadden) #7

Are those connectors hard plastic or rubber molded? Kinda remind me of something that Teledyne Impulse puts out in their RMG series connectors. Then again, they are from China the king of rip-off countries.

 


(Tom-Vidar Salangli) #8

they seem rubber molded since I can bend them.

I will definitely replace the silicon O-rings with Nitrile NBR-70 one’s.


(Harold Scadden) #9

Totally agree with the O-ring swap out. How are you terminating the pigtails? Is it a PVC, TPU or what for outer jacket on the cable.


(Tom-Vidar Salangli) #10

I think it is some kind of rubber or soft plastikk.

I will solder, liquid electrical tape or heatgun glue and heat shrink tubes


(Harold Scadden) #11

Just as a recommendation … check out Raychem “ATUM” series heat shrink. It is an adhesive line high ratio heat shrink that will help moisture seal your splices. Without potting something, this will help you out greatly.

 


(Paul) #12

Those connectors look pretty good. Do you know what material the pins are? Have you done any testing on these yet?


(Deckie) #13

Moflon MW1630 slip ring next to the mount. It is intended that the drive gear mounts between the slip ring and the inner tube flange (hole in the gear for the slip ring to mount through into the inner tube). 30 amps per wire.

 

Also have some goodies on the way from 01 mechatronics to convert two standard servos to continuous rotation with absolute positioning. This should turn out to be a neat compact package…



(Tom-Vidar Salangli) #14

Ok… thanks for info
Is it just “cut, solder and play” for the T100 thrusters then on my Openrov v2,6?
or do I have to do something with the ESC’s?
And what about power consumptions?
Will I have the same runtime with these T100’s?

-Tom-Vidar


(Rusty) #15

Tom,

Yes, they more-or-less do what the old motors did, but stronger. I would recommend using the M100s instead of the T100s because they T100s add quite a bit of weight and require foam to trim.

The M100s can run fine on the voltage and ESCs in the OpenROV 2.6.

Best,

Rusty


(Tom-Vidar Salangli) #16

Thanks a lot for the quick answer :smiley:

One last question.
Are there any special need for maintenance of these motors or just a regular rinse in sweet water?


(Rusty) #17

Just a regular rinse in freshwater after use in saltwater!