Yes, that’s the one. Fits the BlueROV2 (without tether) perfectly. You can either add a tether disconnect at the ROV or cut a small “slot” in the case for the tether to pass through.
For a lighter weight solution, I recently used a standard RubberMaid ActionPacker with the BlueROV2 inside, wrapped in 3 pieces of cut-up foam camping pad. It went through airline checked baggage just fine. As a bonus, you can sit on the foam if you need a soft seat.
The Nanuk 950 just fits the ROV without the tether. I found a deal where I got the padded dividers essentially for free, and cut everything out except the edges. I also had to cut recesses into the lid foam. The result is a snug fit suitable for air transport.
The downside is that the tether needs to be transported separately.
I just took a look on that Nanuk 950 and seems great! but I think is a little more expensive that the ones i just proposed, for example the Seahorse is 220 USD with much space for the BlueRov and the tether inside.
Hi,
I bought a pelicase 1660. It’s really confortable for the ROV, spare equipment, tools and laptop. It may contains everything you need for on board mission, excluding the umbilical.
Happy to hear you found it interesting!
The only problem is that it is quite expensive, in Europe you may find it new for 450 euro and used for the half price. Yet it is lifetimie guarantee and if damaged they change it for a new one…
After years of using them, we still love the Seahorse SE1220 case for the Blue ROV2 (6 or 8 thruster) and the 150m Fathom TMS. Some places sell closed cell foam inserts as an option and we use a template to make the cutouts. Lately, we’ve been adding an SE920 case to both our Lanai and prebuilt BlueROV2 systems for tools, spares, and batteries. We find adding the extra case makes up for the savings in lost parts or loose tools bouncing around the ROV.
Wanted to know about your tether setup. Did you install a quick disconnect for the fathom tether? If so, would you be able to share what bulkhead you used and how you installed it? I know BR just posted a guide for connectorizing the fathom tether with a cobalt connector, but I’m always interested to see how others have adapted.
We’ve done it both ways (hole in the Pelican case and tether disconnect) - but in the long run, the tether disconnect is the way to go. Use the Blue Trail Engineering cobalt connectors. The termination kit is tricky, but you can do it!
We’ve tried a number of types of connectors over the years. We use MacArtney Micro Circular connectors because they are easy to get almost anywhere in the world and have a proven track record. Blue Trail works great too, as do a dozen other manufacturers. Pick what you can routinely and reliably get or get to your customers. We also typically mold them with ScotchCast, which you can get here:
