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That is super helpful. Thank you! I will plan on incorporating this setup in my next build. Working on a new 3D design and should be printing the new body to the ROV soon.
Hi
Have you had any issues with this set up? I’m going to be upgrading my battery housing with an “On” “Off” switch but very intrigued regarding charging battery while in situ.
Do you have any pictures with blanks off? And any of your topside charging configuration.
Thanks
Davie
Hi Davie260563,
All has been working well with this setup for a while now. Here are a couple of pics. The top side charging is just a cable at this point.
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Hi
Thank you so much for this I really like the idea of this to minimise the amount of times we go into the battery enclosure.
Looks great and again thank you it’s much appreciated.
Davie 
Just wanted to pic your brains regarding the SSR DD100 relays you used. We’re they cheap ones that cooked or good ones. I have ordered 
Certainly not the cheapest but hey ho.
Just wondering if I’d still fit this as well as fitting the charging/balance ports within the battery enclosure. Or fit the relay with the electronics pod freeing up some space.
Thanks in advance.
Davie
Davie,
As this is an open forum, I’ll add what I did…
I put the SSR-100a inside the main enclosure, as I just couldn’t get it fit comfortably in the battery enclosure. I then wired the SSR trigger to a spare pair (brown pair) of the tether, and put a toggle switch in the top side tether interface box. Now I don’t have to get my butt out of the chair to turn the ROV on/off 
Even with the 300m BR tether, it works great. As the SSR draws so little current to fire, there doesn’t appear to have any impact (interference) on the data pair in the tether.
I bought one of those Thornwave relays, but haven’t replaced the SSR-100a with it yet. That’ll be for the next teardown/rebuild.
Cheers!
Ken
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Hi Ken
Thanks for your input and that is a fantastic idea and much more convenient in some cases.
Is there a reason your replacing it with the Thornwave considering your currently running with 100amp SSR.
Any pictures would be greatly appreciated I love seeing members set ups as we are constantly learning and wanting to improve the system for functionality and safer.
Cheers
Davie
Hi All,
Sorry for the slow reply. The SSRs I used were low cost ones from amazon. (keenso brand) I never checked on resistance so I don’t know what it was. Note that I also had to shave the corners of the box to get it in the tube with the battery.
Is it just me or do Thornwave not ship outside of US and Canada ? 
Hello! I just saw this post in the feed!
I am actually currently working on a solid state switch dedicated for DC current and to provide the lowest resistance possible. Compared to many SSR you will see, this has lower voltage drop and thus lower power loss. We are currently in the testing stages and if it works out, we may starts selling some of them!
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Let me know when they’re ready, I’m happy to be an early guinea pig 
For sure! 
What’s the max current you see on your system?
It’s hard to measure the instantaneous current but I’m assuming 100A is way more than I need. I’m running SRS Fusion thrusters at 24V, so would expect 30A tops
Hi all… Wanted to check how yours designs are working?, SST relays and other possibility regarding safer on/off switch in the field so there would be less risk of operating the ROV, and without opening the battery tube everytime.
Hey guys!
I´m in the same boat as @diveexplorer
Has anybody got some news?
I´m also thinking about a custom built ROV with BR products, but running it solely with 22.2V batteries. Has anybody tried this?
Can I ask you about this flyback diode?
If you were using the BR switch, would you still use a flyback diode? Or is it something special about the reed switch that makes you focus on this?
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Hi yes I put flyback diode to the circuit/ between the power: plus/minus. In the electronic closure. Not over the relay.
I have been using the ROV many times now. Mostly 25-50% gain. And everything is working as planned.
Having on/off switch does make my ROV dive operations so much easyer. At least one thing less to think about.
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Well, we are currently running a normal BlueRov2 setup with a 14,8V battery supplying the electronics enclosure. The only thing we have added regarding this is a BR switch and a 12V relay. Works every time, and has been working for years.
We are working towards an upgrade which would mean supplying the electronics with a 22,2V battery, and don’t really understand what else we would have to change exept the relay.
Would you care to elaborate on the need for this diode?
Hi @Erlingns95 -
As noted on the T200 product page:
Note that nominal operation at 12-16 V is recommended for the best balance of thrust and efficiency , though operation at up to 20 V is allowable. Exceeding 20 V is not within the rating and not recommended, please see here for more information.
You could use the higher voltage with your ROV, but you will need to limit the max and min throttle values to avoid damaging the thrusters, which would manifest as cracked stators leading to corrosion.