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New SUP project 2x T200

After three years and, more than 100 hours in sea, and a lot of fun, the first T200 failed.

I would like to upgrade the project by the summer.
The plan with two T200:

  • electronic stearing
  • locked direction
  • locked position

The first 3D printed fin worked very well. 3D printed fin for T200
The second fin will carry two T200 that are turned inward by five degrees.


Thrusters need to be moved further forward. The weight is quite large and there is no need to move back so much. Before printing a new model, it will be good enough to check if the inward inclination of 5 degrees is large enough to maneuver. Maneuvering is meant to be able to resist wind and minor waves from the side.
The Arduino Nano is ready to control the Ardupilot. It is programmed with a joystick, a kill switch and a 3-way selector switch (Ardupilot Auto, Loiter and Acro mode).

Have you considered using your original design and just install 2 fin boxes on each side of your existing center fin box… you know the design works and fin boxes are cheap … I like the idea though
What was your speed on one motor?
Expected top speed with 2? Thanks frank

This is out of the question because it would have to destroy the glass cloth and epoxy. The fin box could not be installed because the structure is closed.
Speed with one T200 is here T200 on fishing SUP - #16 by e-sup
I don’t know the expected speed with 2 x T200.
More essential than speed is the ability to drive straight and an electronic anchor. Whether this is possible remains to be seen.
I will write about electronics here SUP with electronic stearing - Rover 4.0 - ArduPilot Discourse

Fin version two is a little firmer and has a smaller profile. The model has 100% infill, total consumption 550g PLA including support.

Very cool. What was the print time for that? I find myself frequently debating between sending parts like that to a printer or taking the time to make the CAM toolpaths needed to mill starboard on the CNC.

The printing time was 11 hours and three days.

I think you are mistaken on the install of additional fin boxes.
They are routinely glassed into boards. I suggested it because it would keep the motors further away from each other. If you wanted to steer using the motors like a skid steer?RT one on to turn left and LT on to turn right, the more distance between them would make it turn more sharply. Either way that’s a lot of drag. It will be interesting to see what the second motor adds to the setup. The power or speed increase may be significantly curtailed by the added drag.I hope you get to test it soon and get some video. Good luck with the project🤙🏼

I glassed fin box myself, because I invested between 150 and 200 hours of work in the SUP production, which also includes inlays.

I don’t have any material inside SUP that I could build fin boxes into. I already have Pixhawk 4 programmed with skid steering.
It may turn out that the angle of 5 degrees of the T200 facing inwards is too small.
Sharp turns are not my priority. I will be happy if the SUP compensates for the waves and wind from the side.
The first tests will be Speed, Tunning Turn Rate, and holding direction in Acro Mode. If Loiter Mode would working, it would allow me to fish at greater depths.
I already prepared some waypoints for real testing in the summer. Making waypoints above the same sea depth (bathymetry mission)

I finally managed to travel to the sea and take the first tests.
The system has passed a mechanical test and manual navigation.
The 3D printed fin with two T200 engines withstood the maximum thrust and the ride for 3 hours.
With the manual control of the joystick, I manage to keep approx. ± 10 degrees from the desired direction of travel. I have to count the turning circle at somewhere 50m. The conditions were calm morning sea and little wind.
I have already gained a lot from this. In three hours of sailing, it was not even once necessary to correct the direction with a paddle. This, in turn, allows trolling fishing with two rods (one before).

the following steps are:

  • replacement of WiFi communication PX4 / smartphone with bluetooth, thus releasing the cellular signal for downloading maps
  • fix compass problems because I keep getting an EKF warning
  • for the needs of PID settings and other settings, I have to take a larger tablet on the SUP, because it is impossible to use the Mission Control program on a small screen in strong sunlight. If I can manually operate an SUP with a + -10 degree deviation from direction, Pixhawk should do it better.

I would be very grateful for any hint on how to tackle PID settings with such a vessel.

Cool project @e-sup :smiley:

Is that including if you run one of the thrusters backwards? I haven’t tried SUP, so not sure how unstable that would be…

Not sure what your baseline is here, or the specific info you’re after, but the following may be useful:

Hello @e-sup!

Awesome project! Did you ever end up uploading the 3d-model to thingiverse?
I’d love to try it in a project


No, I did not uploaded.

This summer, given the circumstances, I was only on a sea holiday for a week and didn’t have much time to test the parameters.
I am not sure if I will continue the project of using Ardupilot. The main reason is the inability to zoom the QGroundcontrol and Mission Planner programs. It is practically impossible to use on a smartphone. I corrected the otherwise PID parameters, which, unlike other autonomous aircraft, vehicles and vessels, are very slow.

However, I am very pleased with the manual joystick control. I only need a paddle for short sharp turns. Practically nothing from the previous situation. True, the sea was very calm with little waves and wind. In more difficult conditions, I have not yet had the opportunity to test this configuration. I limited the thruster speed. I am as fast as before, the voyage is much quieter.

Here is a snapshot of this year’s configuration Oprema za ribolovni SUP 2021 / Fishing gear for Stand Up Paddle Board - YouTube