Eloi,
Use a 4 core cable between the 4" enclosure and the enclosure with the camera (the 2" enclosure is perfect for a camera). Use two of the four wires for your DC voltage into the camera enclosure. Use the other two wires for the video signal out of the camera enclosure and back to the 4" enclosure. Connect video wires to one twisted pair in the tether.
Your camera may have only three wires because the red is power +ve, the black is -ve and video screen, the yellow is for video core.
Never add a splice to your tether for something like a camera. Keep all connections between enclosures. This will reduce wear from unplugging tether and also reduce complicated tether splices.
Hope this helps.
Ah OK, your are no longer using the camera inside the battery housing?
Where do you install the 2" housing on the ROV?
I am looking at two quick disconnect for the analog camera signal and battery power at the back of 3" to be able to use the 3" housing (battery + camera) as a stand alone drop-down camera system (just need a frame) which can be connected to the Fathom tether.
This would add flexibility for these two different usages. I however get your point about making it more complex.
I really want quick disconnect between tether and 4" housing for all the advantages it brings. However since housing, penetrator, analog camera and voltage regulator are so cheap, I should maybe have a second independent camera system (in a 2" for example combined with a smaller battery) and dedicate it to the dropdown camera utilization and only reuse our existing Fathom tether which is the most expensive bit of equipment to bring the analog signal back to the surface.
A connection for the main tether is a good idea. You could make an independent camera that can work alone or plug into the Blue2 that way you could have an extra camera for the ROV or use it as a drop camera. Itβs easily done with the wiring.