Low Cost HD-Zoom-Tilt Project

Niiice…ive just in the process of ordering a complete lit and parts for this but i qwant low light usb and Analog in the same;).i wirked for Argus remote system and they had cameras like thie;) nice for aft camera too;)

Found it - Lens

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Parts should get here soon so I will be able to update later this week.

I also ordered a couple more cameras, low light and UHD. This time I chose a fish eye lens.

I’ll let you know when they turn up.

I think I will also be adding a piece of plastic to isolate the lens from other light sources. I’ll need the 3d printer for that.

I guess the idea here was just to show how to build a cost effective camera with what was readily available from BR2 but going through the motions made me realize, with a few extra tweaks, this could be a very sensible product.

In the meantime, we went ahead and added the ethernet switch to the BR 4in enclosure.

This is the ethernet switch we used. 8USD with delivery: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/White-Case-mini-ethernet-switch-4-port-desktop-network-SOHO-RJ45-LAN-HUB-Small-switch-for/32822278658.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.afXLBY

I have put the wire assignments 1,2,3, 6 on the board where you need to solder.



We had to enlarge the fathom-x mounting holes to 2.5mm to put our 3mm threaded spacers.

We also build a bracket to fit the ethernet board on top of the fathom-x board.

We also opted to get rid of the female bulkhead and solder network cables directly on the ethernet board. We crimped RJ45 connectors for the fathom-X board and R-Pi and finally spliced cables to tap onto the 5v regulator power.

Works perfectly.

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Nice work @etienne.

I have to come clean on that one, I asked one of my guys to do it :slight_smile:

Hello All,

Finally got the parts and did some tests. I do see the brackets as suspected but if I zoom in a little bit they go away.

I still have some space in between the lens and the dome so there is a chance I can improve on this with a different bracket.

In the meantime, here are some screen shots.

First one is the BR2 camera outside its dome.


Second one is my camera inside its dome.


I find that my camera gives better results in general especially if the BR2 camera is inside its dome.

Also, the good news is, I’ve applied the fix from my thread Get video in Videolan and latency is as good as the BR2 camrea so you can fly with it.

I’ll be cutting the tube today or tomorrow and will post the pictures of the build.

That will conclude this initial goal then I will need to make a bracket that will bring the lens closer to the dome and protect it from surrounding light.

I also bought a couple of cameras I want to tests with fish eye lenses.



I just realized I posted the wrong pictures for comparing the cameras.

Here they are:

You can see the brackets on each side. But if you zoom in enough they go away.

As promised here is the final setup.

Just need to finish the aluminium bracket and tidy up the tether.


Nicely done. Looks like the color saturation and light sensitivity of the new camera is ever better than the original.

Yeah, the web interface allows you to adjust the image settings but the factory defaults are already good. Its a bit on the yellow side but very close to the colors in the office.

Overall the image is sharper and the focus can be adjusted manually.

@etienne - Very nice. I agree that the colors looks good! I’m wondering if you can achieve similar color results by changing any of the settings on the camera page at The focus and clarity seem to be relatively similar between the two.

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Hi Rusty,

I haven’t had the chance play with the settings but the camera I have has superior optics which is likely where the difference is.

Its more apparent live.


I want to try one of these out, which options did you select for the purchase? It’s not really clear what’s the ‘basic’ type.

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I selected BG cable but ended up getting a camera with an extra board.

The camera comes with a variety of options including local usb storage, composite out, etc etc.

The last 2 cameras I ordered from them I just emailed them with what I wanted and they sent me direct links.

They answer very quickly.

I would ask them if the basic version comes with the ethernet and power breakout cable.

When you get it, you will need to access the camera with internet explorer only. The other browers don’t work.

The camera is 38mm x 38mm so slightly too big to fit inside the 2inch housing which is a bloody shame…

I figured it out after digging in a bit.


I emailed them and asked if they had any sort of API or interface documentation; I want to control the zoom with the joystick.

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they are onvif compatible which means you will be able to send commands to it

I asked them before, they sent it over. Let me know if you want me to email it to you.

They have a software to control it in the package they sent me but I haven’t tried it since I am going down the ONVIF route.

Please do! jacob@bluerobotics.com

Here is the ONVIF white paper.

Just ordered a bigger for two cameras… :wink: sometimes you need to have a target And follow something else :wink:


I just thought I’d share my experience and this last picture to conclude this topic.

This setup is only for above the water line inspection.

Overall, it worked beautifully.

The buoyancy blocks I bought from BR and cut in half then painted with Jotun epoxy paint.

Three lights are shifted to the top bracket (I just didn’t position them for the picture.)

I was initially concerned that I would need more lights so I bought 4 extra but it turned out totally unnecessary.

The client was really impressed with the picture quality and how we could zoom in.

The bracket does show if you zoom out too much but not necessary in this setup.

Also note there are no verts since the blocks are keeping the whole system afloat.

After this build, I am thinking that using this bulky enclosure as a hub for extra perpetrators would be the way forward.

I am also interested in repeating this on a 3 inch enclosure with a smaller camera at some point in the future.

Improving the bracket for the next build using a 3d printer and also darkening the back with paint on the inside or some kind of dark plastic wold be ideal.

On a side note, I thought the BR2 looked a bit bad ass with the big buoyancy and it is definitely making me want to improve the frame and double the thrusters. But that is a whole other topic :slight_smile:


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