How is the cinema cam solution working for you?

General Discussion
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Hi I am currently running a fifish E-go but I am strongly considering the next ROV to be a Bluerov, specifically for the ability to create an underwater cinema filming platform. I am considering making a solution like the one on the webpage, but using the Panasonic box full frame cam instead of the micro four thirds version. I would love to hear from user how this works. I wonder if the Bluerov platform is as stable in the water as the fifish for filming ? Also I am not sure what housing other choose. Off course the cheapest way is the bluerobotics 5 “ tube, but I guess I am then limited to a small dome. The anglerfish dome is much bigger right ? Is that not quite important, hope someone can help. Kind regards Jakob

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I currently use the BR2 Heavy for in-water filming with full frame cameras, housed in Nauticam. I mount depending on the requirement, either below in a bespoke payload skid, or on top with a pair of roof racks. I have currently run Canon R6 mk2, Sony FX3, RED Komodo-X & RED Raptor.

Here are a couple of examples, so you may make your own mind up about stability:

And finally, one showing a RED Komodo-X perched on top

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absolutely great info Marcus, thx. It’s one of those topics that is so specialized that info is difficult to come by :0). Pictures are rock solid, andthos housings piggyback ride great on that ROV :0). Seeing this actually makes me think about if the payload skiff is even needed. On the last video I can see that you have a separate datakabel for the cam. What about the other solutions, do you run the cinema cam “blind” and rely on auto settings, or do you feel that datalink is required. That will somehow guide what solution I will go for when I have found the money. The panasonic solution depicted on the website is appealing due to the ethernet datalink in one cable, but I know that focus hunting can be an issue on the older Panasonic cams. Anyhow would love to hear what setup you would go for if you would have to choose only one, and economy is not unlimited, the reasonable workhorse for 90 percent of situations :0). Thx for your reply I am now subscriber 150 on your YouTube channel :0)

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As you mention, in the last video the camera had a separate data cable, this was for 2 reasons:

  1. Top side recording

  2. Only using a short 50m tether, so a loomed tether was no hassle

Every camera I run, I have full topside manual control. The Canon R6 mk2 does not support ethernet, so I run that over USB plugged into the Pi. I then run Virtual Here, and control topside. This has around a second delay, so not ideal, but also not the end of the world. The Canon desktop software is ok for manual control, but the only real focus option is click and pick (it does have manual focus adjustment, but it is not stemless and a bit shit for video).

The Sony & RED cameras are brilliant, as they support ethernet over USB, so I plug them into the ethernet switch. I then run their desktop software, which offer full manual control, as well as step-less manual focus - which are brilliant! Here is the FX3 bench test showing the focus https://www.instagram.com/reel/DUK_rtlCORI/?igsh=Yjh0NGlzaGRiN2M0

As a sub-note, I now run a fibre tether on one of my ROVs, for use with the Sony & RED cameras.

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Fantastic info thx. Topside I am shooting with a S5ii Panasonic, maybe I should look into how that could work. In the beginning I was very tempted by the box camera solution due to the appealing compact size, but being your solution with standard DSLR housings, makes me think that this could be a solution. What does the fibre tether give you of possibilities ?

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The fibre offers gigabit bandwidth (as opposed to the 40-60Mb/s over FXTI), with no lag.

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I have now watched your setup, and that is a really sweet setup. I hope I can pry your brain a bit more on this :0). I have rigged around and it seems that my panasonic s5ii also supports usb→ ethernet adaptor, and panasonic has its own tether software, so I would assume I could make a similar solution to yours using that cam ? If you had to choose one wideangle focal length, that is kind of similar to the picture I get with a action cam paired with a vetlense dome, what would you choose, I mean what is your standard wide angle focal length and homeport dimension workhorse :0). Last question, since I will have to wait a bit before I have economy to acquire a bluerov, I am thinking about upgrading my fifish E-Go setup by making it carry the S5ii below. It would have to be run in automode, like I use the action cam now, do you think that would give any useful pictures. I mean I could choose framerate, and shutter, and then leave it to handle auto iso and WB ??

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In theory, an camera that has desktop control software ‘should’ be able to work - for video though, barring the Sony & RED, I have not yet found desktop software that allows nice focus.

Focal lengths……..the standard ‘go to’ lenses for UW video are 11-16, 16-35 and 24-70, my personal preference is rather ‘off-piste’ with 8-15 fisheye at 15mm, but I also have 10-20 and 12-24. Reference domes, I go with the Nauticam recommended dome & port extension for each lens - one of the perks of using established housing manufacturers, as opposed to making your own.

By pre-setting the camera, you can ‘spray and pray’ and hope that the laws of average will be in your favour, saying that though, something is better than nothing….

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Fantastic, thanks a bunch Marcus :0). I will then focus on a Sony solution for a future ROV build. I will look at FX3 og FX30 and build from there. Thx :slight_smile:

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Just to clarify what I said above, the only softwares I have found so far that offer nice focusing are the Sony & RED, this is not to say other softwares do not offer this. As you already have the Panasonic, I would suggest you do some bench tests for yourself on whether the desktop software works for your needs.

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Hi, that is also a good point, thx Marcus