I needed a way to disconnect the battery so I could store my AUV without the battery draining, or needing to open the housing every time. A relay would work, but consumes power when on, so not ideal for a battery operated tool. This topic has been covered here before, but it’s confusing and seems to be a reoccurring problem for a lot of people so I wanted to simplify the instructions.
While that part works for your low power vehicle, I think it would emit some magic smoke if asked to handle the true 100A + load of a BlueROV2…. but that doesn’t mean the same approach isn’t possible with a different part.
The Blue Robotics R&D team is cooking up a battery-switch upgrade for the BlueROV2 that is rock solid despite the crazy currents involved!
Hi @brad_smith just wondering what you are using for your main motor? and its a bit off topic, but I am also interested in the design you have used for your aft control planes - are you able to provide some background on why you went for the curved control plane design (only if you don’t mind sharing - understand if you want to keep it to yourself!) The reason I am interested is I work at a university and some of my students are looking at alternative bio inspired control plane and propellor designs.
I can pull between 5-10 amps through this set up without any problems, but I agree, these work fine with my AUV with one thruster and a buoyancy engine, but A blue RVO would be another story.
Hi All, UnderseaROV has developed a switch with the old style wiring (3.5mm bullet) and a version with the new power wiring (5.5mm bullet). It uses dual MOSFETs for loading and fits flush against the 3” enclosure endcap to enable heat dissipation. It is rated for 100A burst currents. Using a BR low voltage switch to activate. See link below.