Battery Disconnect from BR Switch

I needed a way to disconnect the battery so I could store my AUV without the battery draining, or needing to open the housing every time. A relay would work, but consumes power when on, so not ideal for a battery operated tool. This topic has been covered here before, but it’s confusing and seems to be a reoccurring problem for a lot of people so I wanted to simplify the instructions.

I used this $3 PCB with a MOSFET and soldered on a few XT60 connectors, and some socket headers for the Blue Robotics switch as shown in the picture. I’d suggest covering it in something like liquid electrical tape like I did here, or some heat shrink to keep the leads from shorting.

This cost me about $10, and has worked surprisingly well so far.

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Very cool @brad_smith -

While that part works for your low power vehicle, I think it would emit some magic smoke if asked to handle the true 100A + load of a BlueROV2…. but that doesn’t mean the same approach isn’t possible with a different part.

The Blue Robotics R&D team is cooking up a battery-switch upgrade for the BlueROV2 that is rock solid despite the crazy currents involved!

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Hi @brad_smith just wondering what you are using for your main motor? and its a bit off topic, but I am also interested in the design you have used for your aft control planes - are you able to provide some background on why you went for the curved control plane design (only if you don’t mind sharing - understand if you want to keep it to yourself!) The reason I am interested is I work at a university and some of my students are looking at alternative bio inspired control plane and propellor designs.

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Anything can take 100 amps once :laughing:

I can pull between 5-10 amps through this set up without any problems, but I agree, these work fine with my AUV with one thruster and a buoyancy engine, but A blue RVO would be another story.

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Hi Elamnek,

the main thruster in the rear is just a T200 motor, but with a folding prop off an RC airplane set. There is also a 700 mL buoyancy engine inside.

I made a full post about this here, but let me know if you have more questions!

Hi All, UnderseaROV has developed a switch with the old style wiring (3.5mm bullet) and a version with the new power wiring (5.5mm bullet). It uses dual MOSFETs for loading and fits flush against the 3” enclosure endcap to enable heat dissipation. It is rated for 100A burst currents. Using a BR low voltage switch to activate. See link below.

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