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Tether Quick Disconnect

Kevin thanks for the heads up

I have an extra end cap to test on but have drill presses, mill ect.

The Seacon connector listed above I believe fit the penetrator holes that the cap has if not the MIN D will

The MIN E-BCR has an o-ring against the face and not in the bore so it doesn’t have to have a perfect bore like the style you listed, probably wont go as deep as the one you listed but has the same amount of sealing as the BR penetrators, a single O-ring against the face





Sorry didn’t see Schoonerlabs and Pauls posts


Yes the Seacon bulkhead connector would install in the BR end cap penetrator hole with out any issues that I can see, The plug end Min-CCP would have the BR tether inserted into it and connections made inside the plug. This would not require an inline splice like using a pig tail type connector. You would have to make sure you get the correct end for the diameter (gland) of the BR tether

At this time I am not using a BR tether but a AV cable mated to floating rope, this is a fragile set up but have used my old one for 3+ years and am now re-building my ROV with a BR 4" Acrylic hull so building a new tether


What didn’t work on the other style you tried? What method did you use to mate the BR tether to the pigtail (solder, crimp? layers of shrink ect)

I just made my new tether with that type of pigtail plug and was not happy at all with the my splice even on the third try. So the reason with going to try the bulkhead connector and matching plug. I used a similar set up on my present hull and was happy with it.


Once I’m satisfied the connectors are water-tight when connected, yes, that is my plan.

What didn’t work on the other style you tried?
I never got a good electrical connection and was never happy with the seals. The connectors were made from a fairly weak plastic which I think contributed to the issues.
What method did you use to mate the BR tether to the pigtail (solder, crimp? layers of shrink ect)
First method for the pigtail to tether splice is to solder and use glue-filled heat shrink on each wire. Follow with a liberal application of "liquid electrical tape". Followed by 2 layers of glue-filled heat shrink.

If that doesn’t work well enough, I’ll try potting the entire splice.

Again, I’ve only done some preliminary tests. Not certain this will work yet.

Back up and running with new BR 4" enclosure and end cap with above mentioned( http://www.weipuconnector.com/pro_show_108.htm) quick disconnect plug

The fun part was cutting 13mm 1.0 pitch threads into the end cap

Pardon the mess of epoxy on the wires should have masked them off before potting Also really recommend getting the syringe from BR to fill into the penetrators


Here is my version. Parts are shown in pictures, look closely for suppliers. Turned out very nice, don’t expect any issue. About $125 spent, the 3M molding kit was about $75 of it.

(Sorry about duplicate pics, upload was sketchy, wont let me delete. Maybe admin can clean up)


Rusty - There been any progress on a tether disconnect?

@schoonerlabs - Yes, there’s been a lot of progress but nothing I can share quite yet, unfortunately. We’re hoping to have something available around May.

A quick connect on the tether has many benefits. The one thing you don’t want is to lose control or have a dead ROV due to water ingress into a connector. If you are using your ROV for work purposes I recommend paying a few dollars for a good connector such as a SEACON inline connector. Connectors the same as anything else are rated for a purpose. Using connectors which are not rated for subsea use is asking for trouble.

For cheaper Projects I use Bulgin Buccanner 2 to 7 poles
They are rated 100 msw, cost around 15US$

I’m not sure I’d trust that “100 msw” rating. I’ve used them as topside connectors but I wouldn’t use them for anything that was fully submerged.

I agree with you Paul. I have seen a lot of fully rated connectors fail in under 100 meters of seawater.

Rusty - Any more word on the tether disconnect?


Still making progress! It takes a long time to move from a functional prototype to full production. We’re currently waiting on some tooling to be completed for rubber molding.


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Thanks for the update. If you need some testing I’d be happy to try anything out on our setup to assist.

Are you pouring actual hot mold rouber or using something like cold mix scotchcast? The cold mix stuff will reportedly not stick to ABS plastic so a 3d printed mold is possible.

I’ll let you know for sure after this weekend if I get that far on my tether build.

Hi Tim,

We’re injection molding the rubber. These connectors are designed for relatively mass manufacturing.


Interesting. Are you planning on offering them as add on end connectors as well?

Tim, yes, absolutely!


Just curious … what rubber compound are you going to be molding the plugs with? I used to mold subsea rubber connectors at one time.

Rubber is cheaper and REAL quick. Holler if you need to adjust your cook times etc. Got that stuff down pat.