# Tether Disconnect w/ Locking Connectors

**URL:** https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/tether-disconnect-w-locking-connectors/573
**Category:** Modifications
**Created:** [December 4, 2016, 6:00am UTC](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/tether-disconnect-w-locking-connectors/573 "2016-12-04T06:00:35Z")
**Posts on this page:** 20
**Page:** 1

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### Author: ![shannon](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/e19adc/32.png) [@shannon](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/u/shannon)
#### Post date: [December 4, 2016, 6:00am UTC](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/tether-disconnect-w-locking-connectors/573/1 "2016-12-04T06:00:35Z")

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Here is my version. Parts are shown in pictures, look closely for suppliers. Turned out very nice, don’t expect any issue. About $125 spent, the 3M molding kit was about $75 of it.

 ![](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex019/uploads/bluerobotics/original/1X/20e53ce28e38b8908f0b2f1fa7dc5a35c8157538.jpg)  

 ![](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex019/uploads/bluerobotics/original/1X/814021fed92caeee2fa69377f8ff21b23388c669.jpg)  

 ![](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex019/uploads/bluerobotics/original/1X/e6e7631e8d8f651d567196f01435f69763969872.jpg)  

 ![](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex019/uploads/bluerobotics/original/1X/64323be8a8a4cb77e3f1b187dfe19a7b02e204ef.jpg)  

 ![](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex019/uploads/bluerobotics/original/1X/28f933fbef47c4ba6490fd4fcce79782bdde1b48.jpg)  

 ![](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex019/uploads/bluerobotics/original/1X/f76e9e8cd050b0c99eb3ac4c6f9161e08896205d.jpg)  

 ![](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex019/uploads/bluerobotics/original/1X/ef1b5ea9a3022768bc5d7db4d5c09e47abf057c9.jpg)  

 ![](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex019/uploads/bluerobotics/original/1X/d46b6be5768f1cc962a152199886f6e5b549b4de.jpg)  

 ![](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex019/uploads/bluerobotics/original/1X/aaf4f24367bcbc786ed17a3405220da97892c67a.jpg)  

 ![](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex019/uploads/bluerobotics/original/1X/42aeb35b67ffac9f27e815bd44f7e57d9d46fed9.jpg)

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### Author: ![paul-unterweiser](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex019/user_avatar/discuss.bluerobotics.com/paul-unterweiser/32/697_2.png) [@paul-unterweiser](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/u/paul-unterweiser)
#### Post date: [December 4, 2016, 6:11am UTC](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/tether-disconnect-w-locking-connectors/573/2 "2016-12-04T06:11:57Z")

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Looks great Shannon. Personally, I’d go with some bigger cable ties like what come with the kit to secure the thimble. If you’re in the US “Harbor Freight” carries them.

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### Author: ![shannon](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/e19adc/32.png) [@shannon](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/u/shannon)
#### Post date: [December 4, 2016, 6:25am UTC](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/tether-disconnect-w-locking-connectors/573/3 "2016-12-04T06:25:25Z")

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Thanks for the suggestion, may do that. These are T & B brand with stainless steel tabs and are extremely strong, may add some of the large ones on top of these.

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### Author: ![rjehangir](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex019/user_avatar/discuss.bluerobotics.com/rjehangir/32/671_2.png) [@rjehangir](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/u/rjehangir)
#### Post date: [December 4, 2016, 11:54am UTC](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/tether-disconnect-w-locking-connectors/573/4 "2016-12-04T11:54:42Z")

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Shannon,

This looks excellent. I’m impressed with the splice job.

-Rusty

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### Author: ![shannon](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/e19adc/32.png) [@shannon](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/u/shannon)
#### Post date: [December 4, 2016, 11:57am UTC](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/tether-disconnect-w-locking-connectors/573/5 "2016-12-04T11:57:50Z")

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Thanks, very easy with the 3M kit, think it was $68. A little big for the 2 wire, but would work for more splices as well.

The locking rings on the connector work well, but they are ABS plastic, not Aluminum. ☹

&nbsp;

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### Author: ![pierson-connors](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/edb3f5/32.png) [@pierson-connors](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/u/pierson-connors)
#### Post date: [December 5, 2016, 6:40am UTC](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/tether-disconnect-w-locking-connectors/573/6 "2016-12-05T06:40:52Z")

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Professional quality job! Quick question, if you don’t mind. Are the splice kits good for more than one splice?

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### Author: ![shannon](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/e19adc/32.png) [@shannon](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/u/shannon)
#### Post date: [December 5, 2016, 8:39am UTC](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/tether-disconnect-w-locking-connectors/573/7 "2016-12-05T08:39:09Z")

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The kit is a “One Shot”, with a 2 part rubber resin. You could get several wires, maybe 8-10 in one splice, but what you see in the pic is what comes in the kit. The resin is a divided bag that you open the divider and knead the bag to mix, then you got a few minutes to pour. If you made your own mold, you could maybe get a few pours out of one bag.

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### Author: ![shannon](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/e19adc/32.png) [@shannon](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/u/shannon)
#### Post date: [December 5, 2016, 9:08am UTC](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/tether-disconnect-w-locking-connectors/573/8 "2016-12-05T09:08:25Z")

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Another thought- we had a small splice, which means it took a lot of resin to fill the mold, and we still had a bit left over. Had we wrapped the splice in electrical tape, as suggested, instead of heat shrink, you could build it up a little and not need as much resin to fill the mold. If you had more molds, you could do multiple pours at once. It is feasible to separate the resin into smaller batches, mix as needed, and reuse the mold. may want to put a little silicone spray on the mold to make it easier to remove and not damage it.

&nbsp;

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### Author: ![pierson-connors](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/edb3f5/32.png) [@pierson-connors](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/u/pierson-connors)
#### Post date: [December 5, 2016, 7:53pm UTC](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/tether-disconnect-w-locking-connectors/573/9 "2016-12-05T19:53:31Z")

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Good to know, thanks!

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### Author: ![paul-unterweiser](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex019/user_avatar/discuss.bluerobotics.com/paul-unterweiser/32/697_2.png) [@paul-unterweiser](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/u/paul-unterweiser)
#### Post date: [December 5, 2016, 10:52pm UTC](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/tether-disconnect-w-locking-connectors/573/10 "2016-12-05T22:52:35Z")

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@Shannon - An alternative to using more electrical tape to make the wire bundle larger, you could also make a smaller mold. Some scrap, easily milled plastic (such as HDPE or UHMW), a router, and a bit of time at the bench and you could probably make a mold that’s closer to what you need.

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### Author: ![shannon](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/e19adc/32.png) [@shannon](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/u/shannon)
#### Post date: [December 6, 2016, 1:10am UTC](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/tether-disconnect-w-locking-connectors/573/11 "2016-12-06T01:10:15Z")

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3D printer would do a great job.

&nbsp;

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### Author: ![ozan-durmus](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/4bbf92/32.png) [@ozan-durmus](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/u/ozan-durmus)
#### Post date: [December 7, 2016, 12:47am UTC](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/tether-disconnect-w-locking-connectors/573/12 "2016-12-07T00:47:05Z")

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A customizable splice mold is available for free :

> **[Waterproof Cable Connector (Resin Filled / Customizable) by plainolddave](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:231673)**
>
> Hi - this is an outdoor electrical cable connector - use it to permanently encapsulate a cable splice into a solid block of resin to protect the joint from the elements. Commercial versions of these are used in industry for underground cables. ...

Download and install OpenSCAD after downloading, it has all parameters required

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### Author: ![DPsea](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/2bfe46/32.png) [@DPsea](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/u/DPsea)
#### Post date: [July 14, 2017, 9:55am UTC](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/tether-disconnect-w-locking-connectors/573/13 "2017-07-14T09:55:16Z")

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Hi all,  
this is my version:

I used seaconn 4 pin. Differently from Shannon I added an ethernet connector on the “deck” side of the cable. I further built an extra cable to be more easily handled during bench operations. Female ethernet connector has been installed in the Fathom x ethernate surface box. No communications issues at al.  
Total cost: 200 Euro

 ![](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex019/uploads/bluerobotics/original/2X/b/b00336e1ae73c4bfd838dd4915c1cb96b1e8946f.jpg)

Davide

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### Author: ![DPsea](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/2bfe46/32.png) [@DPsea](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/u/DPsea)
#### Post date: [July 14, 2017, 9:55am UTC](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/tether-disconnect-w-locking-connectors/573/14 "2017-07-14T09:55:52Z")

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![](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex019/uploads/bluerobotics/original/2X/9/9f1c6666b37a1f41178b0c4d896e224efa850bf3.jpg)

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<div class="post-metadata">

### Author: ![DPsea](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/2bfe46/32.png) [@DPsea](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/u/DPsea)
#### Post date: [July 14, 2017, 9:56am UTC](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/tether-disconnect-w-locking-connectors/573/15 "2017-07-14T09:56:27Z")

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![](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex019/uploads/bluerobotics/original/2X/b/bc8e7ffb2ee7a5c35b7e7aa2b8efb31ef8792f8a.jpg)

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### Author: ![noreply](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex019/user_avatar/discuss.bluerobotics.com/noreply/32/1406_2.png) [@noreply](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/u/noreply)
#### Post date: [July 14, 2017, 8:39pm UTC](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/tether-disconnect-w-locking-connectors/573/16 "2017-07-14T20:39:31Z")

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Thank you Shannon and Davide. I just ordered up some seacon connectors and scotchcast to make up a tether disconnect similar to yours. ROV will transport in a smaller package once I get the tether separated.👍

Jake

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### Author: ![shannon](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/e19adc/32.png) [@shannon](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/u/shannon)
#### Post date: [July 14, 2017, 9:03pm UTC](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/tether-disconnect-w-locking-connectors/573/17 "2017-07-14T21:03:46Z")

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The removable tether makes it much better. I do need to work on a small reel that magically hold 350’ of cable 🙂

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### Author: ![maleche1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/f08c70/32.png) [@maleche1](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/u/maleche1)
#### Post date: [August 7, 2017, 4:18pm UTC](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/tether-disconnect-w-locking-connectors/573/18 "2017-08-07T16:18:55Z")

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What do you think the depth rating is for this splice?  
Best,  
Doyle

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### Author: ![Holtz\_dk](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/59ef9b/32.png) [@Holtz\_dk](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/u/Holtz_dk)
#### Post date: [August 8, 2017, 12:04pm UTC](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/tether-disconnect-w-locking-connectors/573/19 "2017-08-08T12:04:56Z")

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Is there any reason that noboby is using a bulkhead connector for the tether disconnect?

I was thinking about this:

> **[Micro Male Bulkhead Connector with 4 Pins MCBH4M](https://www.amronintl.com/seacon-micro-wet-con-male-bulkhead-connector-with-teflon-wire-pigtail-mcbh4m.html)**
>
> Micro Series Male Bulkhead Connector with 4 Pins and a 12 in. long Teflon Wire Pigtail. MCBH4M

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### Author: ![kevink](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex019/user_avatar/discuss.bluerobotics.com/kevink/32/686_2.png) [@kevink](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/u/kevink)
#### Post date: [August 8, 2017, 2:43pm UTC](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/tether-disconnect-w-locking-connectors/573/20 "2017-08-08T14:43:13Z")

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The bulkhead connector doesn’t fit in the penetrator holes as is. One of them would need to be drilled out by a few mm.

[Next page](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/tether-disconnect-w-locking-connectors/573.md?page=2)
