# Building the world’s second consumer deep sea drop cam **URL:** \ **Category:** Build/Make\ **Created:** [March 2, 2019, 5:13pm UTC](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/building-the-world-s-second-consumer-deep-sea-drop-cam/4516 "2019-03-02T17:13:51Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 1\ **Showing post:** 47
**Author:** ![EliotBR](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex019/user_avatar/discuss.bluerobotics.com/eliotbr/32/6937_2.png) [@EliotBR](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/u/EliotBR)\ **Post date:** [November 20, 2022, 10:57pm UTC](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/building-the-world-s-second-consumer-deep-sea-drop-cam/4516/47 "2022-11-20T22:57:04Z")
Hi @Paucam, It’s great to see an update on this project - thanks for sharing, and great work on all your development and testing so far! 😃 Some comments, questions, and suggestions for potential future improvements: - With our new [Locking Enclosures](https://bluerobotics.com/product-category/watertight-enclosures/locking-series/) (which you mention in the assembly guide) and [WetLink Penetrators](https://bluerobotics.com/store/cables-connectors/penetrators/wlp-vp/) (which don’t seem to be mentioned), it could indeed achieve depths up to 500m 😃 - potted penetrators [may not consistently maintain a seal](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/depth-rating-for-potted-cable-penetrator/12696/2) all the way to 500m - it depends a fair amount on the potting conditions - note that it may be worth epoxy-coating (potting) the exposed end of the cable jacket (and/or use cable with a water-blocking filler) and the ends of the wires, to avoid the high pressure water pushing in past the insulation - using a water-blocked connector could also resolve this issue, although is more expensive to do - to get beyond 500m would require a thicker and/or smaller dome (perhaps the electronics could fit into a 3" enclosure?), as well as new lights (at some point we’ll be releasing a new iteration of our Lumens, which should be able to go deeper) - It’s really cool to have a reference for a tested burnwire setup! 😃 - I noticed that the guide example mentions it should burn for ~1 minute (section 4.16), but the code seems to tell it to burn for ~10 minutes - are these both just examples that depend on the wire being used, or were they supposed to both be the same? - if an external pressure sensor or an accelerometer were integrated, it may be possible to “burn” until a consistent lifting starts occurring, with the timeout used as a backup to avoid excessively running down the battery if it doesn’t seem to be working properly - I’m not sure how much current the burnwire setup uses when switched on - if it’s significant, it may be worth providing a close or even direct connection to the battery terminals, to avoid burning out the breadboard traces - for additional robustness, it may be worth covering the anode in [moldable sealant](https://bluerobotics.com/store/cables-connectors/tools/tool-coax-seal-0-5in-60in-r1-rp/), as electrical tape alone could still fail to keep the water out and end up corroding things - The “blue\_eye” name is apt and interesting, but may be a bit confusing because there’s an ROV company called [Blueye](https://www.blueyerobotics.com), so it could incidentally seem like this project is affiliated with them - The photos and wiring layout diagrams in the assembly guide should be useful for replicating your setup 🙂 - it may also be worth creating an actual schematic, to better share the logical intent behind the circuit connections, and help people to understand which connections are being made and why - there are free softwares that can make electrical schematics - Kicad is one for electronics design, and there are also a variety of online options, including just general diagram creation software that includes electrical symbols - The usage guide refers to our [Switch](https://bluerobotics.com/store/comm-control-power/switch/switch-10-5a-r1/) as an “electronic switch”, but I would personally consider it (and the reed switch) to be [electrical switches](https://docs.bluerobotics.com/ardusub-zola/hardware/additional/electrical-switch/) (because they are not electronically actuated), while your relay would be an example of an [electronic switch](https://docs.bluerobotics.com/ardusub-zola/hardware/additional/electronic-switches/) 🙂 - Given the two Lumen lights are sharing the same signal, it may be worth daisy-chaining them (or just getting a [pre-connected set](https://bluerobotics.com/store/thrusters/lights/lumen-sets-r2-rp/)), to save a penetrator spot in the enclosure --- _[View the full topic](https://discuss.bluerobotics.com/t/building-the-world-s-second-consumer-deep-sea-drop-cam/4516)._