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Tether Quick Disconnect


(undersearobotics.com) #61

That’s right. I used a 4 lead cable that is just slightly larger in diameter than the BR tether. The 4 wires are larger than the tether wires so it was a bit challenging to get epoxy in both ends of the penetrator. Vacuum test passed so next step is to ScotchCast the other connector & pigtail to the tether.


(Marcus) #62

Great, thanks Paul. From the data sheet, it looks like all the connectors with 2-8 contacts have the same cable OD (but they must use smaller gauge wire for more contacts, hence the lower current rating), so it should be theoretically possible to fit an 8 pin connector. Will post results here.


(undersearobotics.com) #63

@spotxuv - Keep in mind that I’m using the “dry connect” connectors and not the “wet connect” connectors. I’m not sure what the cable diameter is for the wet connect version.


(Mark Langille) #64

Rusty - Anything new on the disconnect?


(Rusty) #65

Hi Mark,

No news yet, unfortunately! Connectors are hard…

-Rusty


(Heinz) #66

I made my own quick disconnect. What do you think?


(undersearobotics.com) #67

@force10windsurf - LOL! What depth is it rated to?


(Heinz) #68

pretty deep actually, if you turn the wirenuts up


#69

The seacon 8 pin bulkhead fits with a minimum room to spare by cutting a 7/16 thead in the 10 mm hole


(Mark Langille) #70

I know its been discussed a few times, but trying to dig up again, anyone have a midrange underwater rated 8 pin connector they can recommend other than Seacon? We only need something to handle 30’ for the drop cam project but would like something that is “officially” rated for such use vs some of the cheaper waterproof connectors so that we can provide specs and rating info to our client.


(Harold Scadden) #71

Teledyne Impulse makes the same type of connector series that Seacon does on … you can check them out. Price is still going to be around the same.

You could come up with your own design and get BR to hydro test it for you. I have pressure vessels too, but it is a lot easier for BR to do it unless you are closer to the East coast of the US.


(Todd Sparkes) #72

Amron sells a good connector and is about the least expensive on the market. 8 pin inline connectors.
MICRO WET-CON INLINE MCIL8F
MICRO WET-CON INLINE MCIL8M


(Mark Langille) #73

Those were the ones we were looking at, seems those SEA CON might be best option.

For the SEA CON bulkhead connectors, do thye install the same as the BR with an oring?
https://www.amronintl.com/seacon-micro-wet-con-female-bulkhead-connector-with-teflon-wire-pigtail-mcbh8f.html

I assume it is a different size hole requirement but that isn’t an issue. We plan to use the acrylic end plates and can drill as needed.


(Todd Sparkes) #74

Yes they are o-ring sealed between the face of the connector/plate.


(Todd Sparkes) #75

You could use two inline connectors and just have a pigtail coming out from a standard BR bulkhead adapter. Cheaper than a bulkhead penetrator.


(Mark Langille) #76

I was thinking that but wasn’t sure if the SEA CON pigtail would fit the BR penetrator or not for the 8 pin version.


(Mark Langille) #77

Looks like the SEA CON pigtail is 12.7mm and the BR penetrator is only 10mm
I suppose could run the BR tether out and then splice the pigtail externally. But was trying to minimize the number of external splices.


(Harold Scadden) #78

Just drill a hole big enough to accommodate the bulkhead receptacle. On the rear of the flange there is a face seal O-ring. Believe me, that O-ring will hold a seal long before the housing collapses.


(Svein H.) #79

I just installed a Micro Wet-Con 4 pin to be able to disconnect my tether. I did not drill the whole, i just used a 7/16-20 UNF tap and made threads in the endcap. I secure it with a nut on the backside even if the threads became tight and good. If you do it this way the whole will more or less have the same diameter as before and you can actually use 10mm connectors as well if you want to use the original penetrators at a later point.


(Kevin) #80

Good idea with the tap, that sounds like a pretty reasonable solution. I like it and I may just go and make the mod. I’ll probably have to go and take apart my endcap anyway.