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Slip ring question


(Tim Pierce) #21

Most of the 8 wire and up ones are ethernet capable as long as you aren’t trying power over ethernet POE. You might get a speed drop due to the lack of pair twists over that short area, but it’s generally not too bad.


(Julian Hancock) #22

Hi

I purchased this off ebay, although I have not installed it on a reel yet I have tested between the sub and the topside and it works pretty well.

Julian


(Todd Sparkes) #23

Hello Rusty, Can you give any hints on the new spool? I am looking at purchasing parts to build one.but I would like to wait to see what BR has to offer. Will the spool be detachable? Will BR be including recommended connectors? How much tether will it accommodate?
Thanks
Todd


(undersearobotics.com) #24

I see a tether reel on the upper right corner of the floating dock in this video at time 0:15. Might be a prototype?


(Rusty) #25

@canman172 - I can give some hints :wink:

  • The spool will be very robust and heavy duty
  • It will be IP68 or greater waterproofness
  • The tether will be easily detachable
  • We’ll have two models to accommodate 150m and 300m tethers

It will also be a bit pricey, but I can tell you (after years of trying) that it’s nearly impossible to design a good slip ring spool that is also very inexpensive.


(Tim Pierce) #26

I’m at about $80 so far using a $55 base spool. I don’t know if it counts as good or not yet though. It’s definitly not waterproof yet. I might redesign the case to fix that though. I also have no idea how much cable this one will take.


(vectrino.hr) #27

Finally our 300m spool. About 150$ for all.


(Tim Pierce) #28

Nice work! what model of spool thing did you start building it from?


(vectrino.hr) #29

We started here


(Clyde McQueen) #30

Hi, Rusty – any updates? Thanks.


(Rusty) #31

Hi Clyde,

The spool design is complete and ready to go but it relies on our tether connector design, which is still be finalized. If that continues smoothly we could have an initial release by the end of July.

-Rusty


(Clyde McQueen) #32

Thanks – I look forward to the launch!


(Davide) #33

Good afternoon , Can I have some additional info on these IP65 8wire sliprings ?
thanks!

Davide


(Roy Petter Dyrdahl Torgersen) #34

Hey @DavideROV and others, we are just about to place a new order of slip-rings. They will be 42$ for the 2 wire rings and 66$ for the 8 wire slip-rings, plus shipping and taxes (if any). Delivery time is about 3-4 weeks. Anyone interested?
These are the same IP65 rated slip-rings we have been using for a while now.


(Doyle) #35

I looked at some calculations for a 200m tether reel/spool.
the suggested dimension is: 14" wide, 13" reel diameter, and 8" hub to accommodate 200m.
anyone come up with something different?
also, I haven’t seen any ‘positive’ methods for a quick disconnect at the ROV side. There is some mention of using SEACON ‘pig-tail’, but my concern is the integrity of the cable at the bulkhead connector.
I intend to dive about 550’ and would like to maintain integrity.
best,
Doyle


#36

What do you mean by positive method? What is your concern about integrity of the cable?

I installed an 8 pin bulkhead, by cutting a 7/16’ thread in the 10 mm hole.

The ROV fits a lot better in cases now


(Doyle) #37

Nice!
is that from SEACON?
what does your cable end look like?
thanks!


#38

Yes it is SeaCon, SubCon was too expensive…

I had to make the mould my self, so it looks like this:

and connects to the ROV like this:

the piece of string is a dyneema shackle. Mooving the tow point to the center helped me a lot in current and going straight and keeping the ROV level.

The switch to the right connects to a 200A relay.


(Doyle) #39

So awesome!
3M splicing kit too?
I thought the switch is only rated for 330 feet?
I intend to go ~550 feet.
love the 200 amp idea! any schematics available?
best,
Doyle


#40

Hmm I hope not, I already had it at 99,9 meters (328 feet) and have another dive at 194 m coming up, just need to get a longer tether.

I used 3m compound in a homemade mould.

The relay is a 12v car relay, but I had to cut it in half to make it fit behind the electronic tray. Used the original plus wire from the screw terminal and made a new wire from relay to terminal. The px4 gets power before the screw terminal, so had to disconnect two black wires from the px4 power supply and rely on the other power supplies connected to the px4. The switch is connected to negative terminal and relay.

I hope you get the idea…

Sorry for hijacking the thread, intended for slip ring