during the last weeks, I built a ROV, mainly from BR parts and following the BlueRov2 design.
Several Things I changed, partly because I machined parts myself (frame) or to have it built in a way I like it.
As a bit of background, I build RC planes and subs for years and have a nice workshop at hand…
I´ll list the main changes, for details, just ask.
The frame is fully milled of 11mm POM with threads directly cut into it. Quite stable, heavier then the original (I don´t Need weights…). Still working on the trim.
For power and signal routing, I designed a pcb, which holds the ESC´s. Connection to the thrusters by cable plugs.
As tether I use simple Cat5, which I selected by calculating the buoancy (diameter and weight of 100m spool) so it will float a bit. Works quite well.
Into the tether spool, I included batteries, powerLAN adapter and a wifi router. So no slipring needed. Not perfect video, yet, but working on the config and having no cable on the laptop is nice.
There is no significant additional lag in stream/controls. As can be seen in the Youtube video, sometimes its just not running smooth. As said I’ll have to play with both video stream and Wifi router settings. Will post results, of course.
One thing observed at first testing was that there is strong reflection of surface light in the inner lower part of the front dome. So we put a shield above it (old nitrox table reuse ). How do others solve this? Or is it a camera positioning issue?
I also thought about designing a hood to put inside the dome to have less effect on the driving. I guess some of the pitch up in forward acceleration is coming from the hood.
@Marc
I also had the same problem with light inside the front dome and think the problem was the diodes in the can that causes the problem. I sealed of all the wholes with tape to block the light.
I really like the thought of not having any external connection from the tether spool to my computer so was very impressed with what you were doing. can you tell me what brand of LAN adapter and wifi router you think are most suitable to the job? also, have you been able to get the video up to the original level?
cheers
John
Hi John,
I have built a similar solution. I use a Umbiquity AP AC Pro accesspoint connected to the Phatom X adapter on the topside.
My tests show that there is no difference between cabled and wireless performance of video and control.
Jan R
both LAN adapter and Wifi router are of “TP-Link”.
The (Power)LAN Adapter works perfectly.
The Wifi I tried a lot but the chipset seems not to be able to handle continuous streaming, so I still get non smooth Video sometimes.
Jan, good to hear Ubiquity works well, from other experince that would also have been my next try.
How do you power it? On the smaller Ubiquity modules it was possible to inject less then 24V, 12V was ok if I remeber right…
I have just bought the TP-Link asw well as the Umbiquiti Pro but am hoping to avoid using the Umbiquiti because of the need for a 24 volt battery.
I am getting some custom end caps CNC milled and will attempt to mount a 3" dome onto a much larger end cap. I have looked at the CAD models for the 3" flange but am unable to determine the groove depth for the face 0-ring. Would anyone happen to know what that is?
). How do others solve this? Or is it a camera positioning issue?
